It’s strange to imagine amidst its ubiquity, but at one point Starbucks was considered to be at the bleeding edge of specialty coffee in the U.S., a position that it successfully leveraged to become the top-selling ready-to-drink brand in the category by some distance. In the decades since, the next wave(s) of specialty coffee roasters advanced education and innovation to new heights, and, driven on by young consumers specifically, helped make cold coffee the sales behemoth it is today. For a generation of kids trained to fork over at least $5 for a cold brew on tap, shouldn’t a high-quality, barista-crafted RTD that accurately captures the cafe experience represent great value, even with a premium price? That thesis was quietly being tested at Expo West earlier this month, starting with Verve Coffee Roasters. The Santa Cruz-based company has climbed to the heights of the industry -- culminating in winning “2024 Roaster of the Year (Macro)” from industry bible Roast Magazine -- without the benefit of a massive RTD business, a position that lends credibility to enter a familiar category but also leeway to try a different approach, i.e. opting for “Flash Brew,” a hot-brew process which retains the complexities and aromas of the bean, over the more common cold brew, for its oat milk lattes. Verve Flash Brew debuted with dairy-free, single-origin versions in 2019, but it's the oatmilk lattes, introduced last summer, received a handful of subtle but impactful upgrades at this year’s show. First, the 3-SKU line is now shelf-stable, a request the brand heard from many of its wholesale accounts, explained Verve’s head of RTD, Baker Carroll. After one of its major oat milk ingredient partners closed, the company also shifted gears and reformulated to use “natural binders” rather than gums or oils, and added a touch of honey for sweetness. The cans have also been gently tweaked: a callout for “No Refined Sugars” has replaced “Flash Brewed for Freshness” at the top rim of the can, and a new badge on the side calls out “Sweetened with Honey” and “No Gums or Oils.” There’s a new flavor, too: Sea Salt Mocha, which replaces the previous Chocolate. All 7.5 oz. cans retail for around $4.19 each. The full roster is going into “most key partners,” including Whole Foods, Sprouts, Gap HQ and as a to-go option in Verve’s own cafes (its coffees are also served at CapitalOne Cafe locations). Taken in itself, Verve’s revamp should be welcome news for coffee lovers, but it’s also part of a pattern we saw across Expo West where cold coffee’s popularity inside specialty cafes is having a tangible effect on CPG; see Chobani’s strong commitment on La Colombe to specialty coffee experts like Equator and Groundwork backing regenerative organic agriculture in their RTDs. Another thought: it might also be a way for “purist” coffee roasters to reclaim a share of the conversation within the category after seeing function-forward RTD brands like Pop & Bottle, Super Coffee, Taika and OWYN muscle their way in. Replicating the “premium cafe experience” has been a familiar refrain for some time, but now there may be more will -- and more ways -- to realize that ambition. |