Hi. My name is Monica Watrous, the new managing editor of Nosh, and I love food. I love eating food, sharing food, shopping for food, talking about food, reading about food and writing about food. 👋 As a child of the ‘90s, a decade defined by diet culture, I was programmed to fear food, poisoned by messages like “Nothing tastes as good as skinny feels” and “A moment on the lips is a lifetime on the hips.” 🤔 A lot of therapy and more than a decade of reporting on the packaged food industry have helped me overcome my trauma, shame and guilt around food. So, I am concerned by the discourse (er, moral panic?) surrounding “ultra-processed food,” an overly simplistic, vaguely defined, fearmongering term that could perpetuate disordered eating while creating unnecessary distrust in our food system. 🗞️ Recent articles published in the Wall Street Journal and Washington Post link consumption of ultra-processed foods to poor health outcomes and point to a classification system developed by Brazilian researchers to evaluate the level of processing of food, citing such “red flags” as containing more than three ingredients or stocked in the center aisles of the grocery store. Many companies we cover at Nosh manufacture, market and distribute products that are, by these measures, considered “ultra-processed,” regardless of nutritional content or health benefits. 👉 Not all ultra-processed foods are unhealthy, and not all unprocessed foods are healthy. As Jeff Grogg, president of JPG Resources, pondered in a WSJ piece, “Is lard now a health food because it’s a one-ingredient natural product?” Grogg further poked holes in the classification system in a LinkedIn post, noting, by its logic, “an organic, high-fiber cereal is the nutritional equivalent of Chocolate Frosted Sugar Bombs because they are both made using an extruder.” 🔥 Hot take: “Fundamentally, this use of processing or ultra-processing as a proxy for nutritional evil is a lazy and misguided attempt to reduce salt, sugar and fat intake by trying to make processing itself the bogeyman,” Grogg said. 🤝 Brand founders and operators can have a hand in shaping public opinion about the safety, nutrition and quality of processed foods, while also stamping out food fear and misinformation, by being transparent with consumers about how food is produced and avoiding problematic terms in marketing that demonize foods, ingredients and production methods. 📧 I want to hear from you! Email me at mwatrous@bevnet.com to share your thoughts, whether you agree or disagree with my perspective. |